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Deadbolt Guides From Working Locksmiths

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These deadbolt guides answer the questions homeowners ask us most: which type of deadbolt to buy, what the grade on the box really means, what installation should cost, and how to fix a bolt that will not lock. Each guide is written from field experience and checked against published standards and manufacturer instructions.

All deadbolt guides

Which guide fits your situation

Our deadbolt guides are built to be read in a sensible order, depending on where you are in the process.

Your situationRead this firstThen read
Shopping for a new lockTypes of deadboltsDeadbolt grades explained
Door has glass near the lockSingle vs double cylinderTypes of deadbolts
Planning a budgetInstallation cost guideDeadbolt grades explained
Existing lock is sticking or won't throwDeadbolt won't lockInstallation cost guide

Key deadbolt terms, defined

These terms appear throughout our guides. Each one is explained in more depth where it matters most.

  • Deadbolt: a lock whose bolt is moved only by a key, thumb turn or motor, not by a spring, so it cannot be pushed back by force on the bolt itself.
  • Throw: how far the bolt extends out of the door edge when locked. Residential deadbolts are commonly made with a 1 inch throw.
  • Backset: the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the bore hole. The two common sizes are 2-3/8 inches and 2-3/4 inches.
  • Strike plate: the metal plate on the door frame that receives the bolt. Its screws decide how much force the frame can resist.
  • Single cylinder: keyed outside, thumb turn inside. Double cylinder: keyed on both sides.
  • Grade: an ANSI/BHMA performance rating. Residential deadbolts tested to A156.40 get a letter (A, B or C) for security, durability and finish, so "AAA" is top marks in all three. Many deadbolts also carry a Grade 1, 2 or 3 under A156.36, the auxiliary lock standard.
  • Rekeying: changing the pins inside a cylinder so a new key works and old keys do not, without replacing the lock.
  • Keyway: the shape of the key slot. Locks share keys only if their keyways match.

How we write our deadbolt guides

Big home-improvement sites cover deadbolts in a paragraph or two. The deadbolt guides from Deadbolt Fixers go further because deadbolts are the only thing we work on.

  • Sourced facts. Grades come from the ANSI/BHMA standards, code guidance comes from the model codes published by the ICC and NFPA, and dimensions come from manufacturer installation instructions. Each guide lists its sources.
  • Field context. We add what our technicians actually find on doors: loose strike screws, sagging hinges, cylinders installed upside down, smart locks fighting a misaligned frame.
  • Honest limits. When a fix needs a professional, the guide says so instead of stretching a DIY tip too far.
  • No invented numbers. If we cannot source a statistic or a price, it does not appear.

From reading to fixing

The deadbolt guides explain the why. When you are ready for the how, our service pages describe each job in detail. If the troubleshooting guide points to worn parts, see deadbolt lock repair.

If you decide a double cylinder lock suits your door, the double cylinder installation page covers the code check and key storage plan. Planning an upgrade after reading about grades? The high security deadbolt service explains UL 437 cylinders and key control, and installing a deadbolt on a door that has none walks through the drilling and fitting process.

Suggest a topic for future deadbolt guides

If you have a deadbolt question none of these pages answer, tell us about it. The questions we hear most often become the next guide.

Next step

Talk to a Deadbolt Fixers specialist

Tell us about the door, the lock and what is going wrong. We will tell you what the job involves before any work starts.

Frequently asked questions

Which deadbolt guide should I read first?

Start with the guide to deadbolt types if you are shopping, or the troubleshooting guide if an existing lock is misbehaving. Both link onward to the more specific guides.

Are your guides written by locksmiths?

Yes. The Deadbolt Fixers team, founded by certified deadbolt locksmiths Dan, Ron and Jack, writes them from what we see on real doors, and every technical claim is checked against standards bodies, building codes or manufacturer documentation listed at the end of each guide.

How often are the guides updated?

Each guide shows a last updated date near the top. We revise a guide when a standard, code edition or common product changes enough to affect the advice.

Can I follow a guide to install a deadbolt myself?

The guides explain what correct installation looks like so you can judge the work or plan a project. They are not step-by-step DIY manuals, and a door drilled in the wrong place is expensive to fix.

Do the guides recommend specific brands?

We explain features, standards and grades rather than ranking brands. Where a manufacturer's documentation is the source for a fact, we name it so you can check it yourself.

Where do the cost figures in your guides come from?

Dollar ranges come from published national cost surveys, and each one is labeled with its source. They are typical ranges, not our price list, and local prices vary.

Do you cover building code questions in the guides?

We explain what the model codes generally say, especially about keyed locks on exit doors. Codes are adopted and amended locally, so the guides always tell you to confirm with your local building department.

Will you add guides on other deadbolt topics?

Yes. New deadbolt guides are added when customers keep asking the same question and no existing page answers it fully.

Can I share or quote your guides?

You are welcome to link to any guide. If you quote a short passage, please credit Deadbolt Fixers and link back to the page.

What if a guide doesn't answer my question?

Send us your question through the contact page. If it comes up often, it may become part of a future guide.

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